We’ll Always Have Soufflés in Paris…

Tucked away on a quiet street near the Tuileries gardens and just a stone’s throw from the raucous Rue de Rivoli is one of Paris’s best restaurant treasures – and one of my regular hangouts. It’s also home to my favorite Parisian neon sign. Located at 36, Rue du Mont Thabor in the first arrondissement, Le Soufflé serves some of the finest soufflés in France and has been doing so for decades, six in fact. A rousing ‘Joyeux anniversaire’ is due this classic Paris gem which celebrates its 60th birthday this year. And their charming neon sign in the shape of a soufflé still serves as a beacon for Parisian diners and visitors from all over the world.

Originally created in 1961 by a Monsieur Faure who liked themed restaurants, Le Soufflé was named after the magical French recipe of gloriously puffed eggs. It took the place of a Spanish dining establishment and art studio. The main room served as the restaurant and the salon in back was where artists had their canvases and easels. Today, Le Soufflé remains in the same heart of Paris location with the salle principale and the salon for overflow as well as private events and dinners.

During this era, the restaurant offered just a few classic soufflés – cheese or mushroom for the savory versions and Grand Marnier or chocolate for the sweet ones – along with a variety of traditional French dishes. In time, its reputation for outstanding soufflés spread in the neighborhood, encouraging M. Faure and his chef to expand the restaurant’s soufflé repertoire. In 1991, after 30 wonderful years of celebrating this iconic dish of French cuisine, Monsieur Faure a pris sa retraite (retired). Monsieur Rigard, who had been the faithful maitre d’hotel, took over the restaurant. From 1991 to 2009, M. Rigaud, later joined by his son Stéphane, further developed the array of savory and sweet soufflés offered by the restaurant. During this time, Le Soufflé became firmly established on the Paris dining scene.

In 2010, Monsieur Josnard and his son Nicolas who are related to the Rigaud family, took over the reins of Le Soufflé. They continue the beautiful tradition of serving soufflés inspired by seasonal ingredients and the creativity of their top chef and his right hand. Wonderfully enough, the current chefs have been with the restaurant since the year 2000.

Of course, in the culinary challenge category, soufflés are notorious for being easy to prepare but difficult to make come out successfully. As the Josnards told me recently: If you don’t get the recipe and the cooking process just right, either soufflés won’t rise properly or they will fall. I asked them what they do if a soufflé ordered by a client doesn’t happen to come out right as minutes count in a good dining experience. Pas de soucis (no worries), they assured me. This sometimes happens in the course of making hundreds of savory or sweet egg clouds per day. They noted that their chefs are so talented, they can quickly assess the situation and get another one in the oven immediately so that dining guests are assured of the perfect meal.

When M. Faure opened his restaurant all those years ago, he probably knew the high culinary bar he was setting for his venture. At Le Soufflé then and now, they clearly have mastered la technique. Wanting to hear it from the French experts, I asked them to share their three essentials to successful soufflés:

• A super hot oven – 300 to 350 degrees C.
• The right proportion of soufflé mix and beaten egg whites – Too much egg whites, the soufflé will rise in the oven but immediately fall when it comes out. Too little egg white and the soufflé won’t rise at all.
• Soufflé molds in French porcelain that are well buttered and floured so that the soufflés will rise evenly.

Today, Le Soufflé serves about a dozen soufflés salés and a dozen soufflés sucrés at any given moment (in non-pandemic times, bien sûr). While the classics such as cheese, ham and cheese or spinach remain perennial favorites, the more original combinations such as roquefort cheese with caramelized pears or shrimp with cauliflower or even a Provencal version with goat cheese and tapenade tempt the more adventurous diners. They also offer a few other main dishes for those who would rather have something else. My preferred main course is the Suprême de poulet avec le petit soufflé Henri IV – roasted chicken breast accompanied by a side soufflé with chicken and mushroom sauce – with une salade verte. Their wine list is small but lovely with a focus on French regional wines.

For dessert, it’s hard to beat le soufflé au chocolat (served with warm chocolat sauce in the middle), le soufflé Grand Marnier or le soufflé pommes et Calvados (apples and apple brandy).  My regular choice when available is le soufflé aux fruits rouges – red berries soufflé. It’s a divine deep pink cloud of raspberries, red currants and strawberries. This one also happens to be gluten free for those with a gluten intolerance.

I first fell in love with Le Soufflé in the 1980’s when my parents took my sisters and me there on spring break. Nowadays, when I’m having a Le Soufflé kind of day, I’ll make a reservation, walk over to the Right Bank, enter the beautiful French blue lacquered door, enjoy the warm welcome, and relax into the hushed and casually elegant surroundings. It’s such a winner that I also routinely reserve Le Soufflé for my travel clients – in 20 plus years of doing Paris trip planning, I haven’t found a disappointed traveler yet. In sum, this quintessential Parisian address is a step back in time but still as fresh and pertinent and delicious as ever. Consider it for your next trip to Paris – a warm soufflé handmade just for you might be just the thing to help forget the past pandemic year sans France. So, Happy Birthday, Le Soufflé – may you enjoy another wonderful 60 years in Paris!

NOTE: Le Soufflé will reopen in 2021 as soon as the French governmental restrictions for the pandemic are lifted. They told me they are looking forward to celebrating their 60th anniversary the rest of the year with several new soufflés. Just another reason for travelers to get to Paris as soon as possible. 

* See also my 2011 article on Le Soufflé during their 50th anniversary year by clicking here.