It’s Easter Monday and an official holiday in France, the culmination of le Carême (Lent), and also the last day of the long French holiday weekend. Le lundi de Pâques marks the end of la semaine sainte (Holy Week) which starts with Palm Sunday – le Dimanche des Rameaux. My favorite Palm Sunday in France was years ago when dear husband I were in the little town of Maussane in Provence. It was a glorious day and the church was packed. Instead of palms, olive tree branches and boxwood branches were offered to everyone during the service. French parishes typically use whatever fronds are readily available in their area – from the olive branches, it was wonderfully obvious we were close to the Mediterranean.
Continuing on in la semaine sainte, the faithful observe Maudy Thursday – jeudi saint – which commemorates the Last Supper and washing of the feet. It was at the Last Supper, la Cène, that Christ initiated the sacrement of the first Communion – l’Eucharistie – which is a cornerstone of the Christian faith. As the Catholic parish in Paris notes:
‘Le Jeudi saint est le jour où le Christ a institué l’Eucharistie lors du repas (Cène) de la Pâque, la veille de sa mort sur la croix. Au cours de la messe célébrée avec solennité, on répète le geste du lavement des pieds.’
This year, Easter in France has been more subdued due to the pandemic and the new light lockdown, yet services and observations were held in various forms. Notre-Dame de Paris, which usually the epicenter of Easter celebrations in France, has been closed to the public since the devastating fire in 2019 as it is currently undergoing extensive renovations. This past Thursday, however, a beautiful small Maundy Thursday service was held in the heart of the church with Mgr Michel Aupetit and Mgr Patrick Chauvet, recteur de la cathédrale. Texts were read by readers from the celebrated Comèdie francaise and musicians were also part of the service which was broadcast live. You can also see it here:
The following day is Good Friday – vendredi saint – which recalls the death of Christ on the cross. Catholics in France mark the time of Christ’s crucifixion with the Chemin de croix (stations of the cross) service which retraces in 14 steps or stations the last moments of Jesus from the condemnation of Pilate until his death, all while meditating on the amour de Dieu for His followers. Dear husband and I love participating in the Chemin de croix service in our parish in the French countryside near Fontainebleau which can be held in Courances or in one of the other villages nearby. A couple of years ago, a small group of us gathered at the église in Courances for the Chemin de croix. It was very meditative and moving sharing this experience with our beautiful parish friends – who are all French – with readings and prayers at each station. Unexpectedly, I got chosen on the fly to read not once but twice – with no practice or read-throughs beforehand!
On Holy Saturday – samedi saint – the evening Easter vigil (vigile pascale) commemorates the resurrection of Jesus during the night of Easter. And on the Easter Sunday of Pâques, Christians celebrate that le Christ est ressuscité and the bells start ringing again all over France after being silent since Jeudi saint. To explain the absence of les cloches, French children were traditionally told that the church bells fly away to Rome on Maundy Thursday to be blessed by the Pope. Then they return to France on Easter morning leaving candy and chocolates at each child’s home along the way. This is why French chocolate shops are overflowing with chocolate bells along with chocolate eggs and chicks and other goodies at Eastertime.
While Easter in France is much more than chocolate, egg hunts (les chasses aux oeufs), and a big dinner with family, it must be said that Easter chocolates are a huge thing for the French. Easter chocolate sales in France are second only to Christmas. Fortunately this year, les chocolateries count as essential businesses so have been able to remain open during this year’s Easter season. Many chocolate boutiques have also been selling online with local delivery. Interestingly, the French are known to be real chocolate connoisseurs as the dark variety makes up about 30% of their chocolate consumption compared to 5% of other Europeans according to the French chocolate trade union.
For those who celebrated, we hope you had a Joyeuses Pâques! If you go to the Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Paris’ Instagram account, you can hear the bells of Easter ringing from yesterday. And consider putting France at Eastertime on your travel list. It’s a beautiful celebration at any French church (in normal times) and also a wonderful way to enjoy the gorgeous spring in France.
Pâques – Easter
la Pâque – Passover
le Carême – Lent
le dimanche des Rameaux – Palm Sunday
la semaine sainte – Holy Week
le jeudi saint – Maundy Thursday
la Cène – Last Supper
le vendredi saint – Good Friday
le samedi saint – Holy Saturday
la vigile pascale – Easter vigil
les cloches de Pâques – Flying Easter Bells
les chasses aux oeufs – Easter egg hunts
5 avril 2021. Greetings, Elizabeth! Le Cene ou La Cene? My Larousse calls it feminine. Question for the experts: When does le lavement mean enema? The cleric speaking of Holy Week in the video from N-D de Paris, refers to “le lavement des pieds.” Again, my Larousse confuses me on usage. ‘Love the photos in your blog! S. R. * * * * *
Merci beaucoup, Susan – appreciate your kind comments on our blog. And good catch on our typo! For translations, it would be the context which determines the meaning of ‘lavement’. For Easter, it would be ‘washing’ as in washing of the feet for Maundy Thursday. For medical meaning, the context would indicate an internal washing (enema), etc.
Such a lovely description of the beautiful Easter tradition and celebrations in France. He is risen everywhere! Thanks for sharing.
Merci beaucoup for your kind words, Karen! Yes, Easter is very special in France – something to be experienced for sure!
Thank you for the fabulous descriptions of Holy Week and Easter in France! Very meaningful! I look forward to experiencing all soon!
Thank you, John, for your kind comments! Hope you had a wonderful Easter and that we get to see you soon!
Dear Elizabeth – What a wonderful description of your experience(s) and reflections during Holy Week in France. The faithful are alive and well in France in one seeks them out. The Chemin de Croix with other parisheners must have been quite an experience. Thank you for sharing this with us.
Thank you, Paula! We’ve connected with France and the French in these ways many times over the years…Small slices of heaven, a vrai dire!