You may have heard about the heat wave engulfing much of Europe for the past several days. Last Wednesday, Paris hit a near-record high of 39.7 degrees Celsius. That was a sizzling almost 104 degrees Fahrenheit – whew. It was the hottest July 1 recorded there since 1947 when the thermometer reached 40.4 degrees, or nearly 105 degrees F. I found that while we all were melting and uncomfortable, it did lead to a good amount of camaraderie and commiserating about la canicule (heat wave of three days or more where temps surpass 30 degrees C. during the day and don’t go below 20 degrees C. at night).
Intrepid tourists on the go in hot Paris last week wearing hats, shorts & good walking shoes
Most Parisians I talked to were doing their best to combat la grosse chaleur (the sweltering heat). Public service announcements were reminding the French to drink lots of water, avoid heavy physical activity outdoors and call the heat wave hotline in case of questions or needing help. Since the terrible période caniculaire of 2003 when thousands of people perished across Europe, governments and municipalities now organize alerts and huge efforts to check on the elderly and frail quand il fait trop chaud (when it gets too hot).
One Parisienne sharing her water mister with another on the hot Paris bus last Wednesday
Since air conditioning is not a given in the French capitale, there are some common-sense practices Parisians follow when it’s burning up outside. First, they do as little as possible. Second, they open apartment windows in the morning to let in the cool air and then shut them for the rest of the day to keep the hot air out. However, if they do have to go out, they avoid standing in the hot sun and look for any sliver of shade. In addition, they sometimes skip the stuffy buses and metro cars and spring for air-conditioned taxis. And last but not least, they wear light cotton clothes and use hats. Most Parisians I saw were dressed in summer attire, but I did notice a few wearing strangely heavy clothes including an older gentleman in a wool herringbone tweed jacket. I figured he must have put it on out of habit!
This all might be good for residents, but what to do if you are visiting Paris and want to enjoy the incredible sights despite the heat? Here are a few recommendations to keep handy the next time Paris warms up un peu trop (a little too much) when you’re there:
1) Make sure your Paris hotel room or apartment is air-conditioned: Be sure to ask up front if your lodgings are climatisés. You never know when une vague de chaleur (heat wave) might hit the city.
2) Visit a Museum: Most Paris museums are air conditioned, if not for patrons then for sure to keep the artworks in good condition. I took advantage of the cool temps inside the Petit Palais museum on the Right Bank. The lovely permanent collections as well as the gorgeous 1900 building offer visitors a terrific cultural experience, heat or no heat outside.
3) Go Shopping: The big Paris department stores such as Galeries Lafayette, Printemps and Le Bon Marché are all air conditioned, making it a great excuse to go shopping when the heat is too much. Many smaller boutiques are as well but it’s more hit or miss. I opted to check out the big Hermès sale that started July 1 at Paris’s Palais des Congrès (convention center) near the Porte Maillot. (Note that it’s never held at the luxury retailer’s flagship.) Though you had to stand in line to get in, it was blissfully cool there and the incredible markdowns on scarves, clothes and shoes made it worth the wait!
4) Head for the Movies: If you don’t speak French, then choose an American or British film being shown in V.O., or version originale, and enjoy the cool, dark cinema.
5) Sit in a Café and Drink Cool Beverages: Paris cafés were doing a brisk business last week despite the heat, or maybe because of it. Awnings and misters on terraces provided welcome relief from the hot sun. I chose to sit inside at this Left Bank café where it was even cooler. First on my order were sparkling Perrier and Orangina with lots of glaçons (ice cubes). Then I decided on the cool plat du jour for lunch – melon, cured ham, tomatoes and mozzarella, and salad. It was the perfect hot day meal, and I bet the chef was sure happy not to fire up his kitchen for this dish.
6) Cool Off With French Ice Cream: Even though the Italians are famous for their gelato, the French do some great glaces as well. There are good ice cream shops around the city but my favorite is Berthillon on the Ile St. Louis.
7) Take a Boat Ride on the Seine: Take advantage of cool breezes with a boat ride on the Seine river. You can choose the Bateaux Mouches or the Vedettes du Pont Neuf for your cruising pleasure, amazing views of Paris included.
8) Enjoy Paris from the Top of a Double-Decker Bus: It’s also breezy up top on the double-decker buses that offer great tours of the city. History buffs will love that Paris had both double-decker buses and horse-drawn omnibuses way back at the turn of the century too.
The other alternative would be to get out of the city and go park yourself on a beach somewhere as France has so many great ones. Seriously, Paris can still be fun on hot days. Just take it easy, find the cool spots, drink lots of water and know that A.C. is waiting for you at your hotel or apartment at the end of the day!