Fall in France ~ Top 5 Ways to Enjoy This Rich French Season

Bonjour France friends! What unusual times we are living in. With the latest lockdown in France, it seems like some inspiring French fall color is a good idea. I love France in all seasons but fall is at the top of my list year after year. Autumn all over the country is divine for so many reasons – les belles couleurs, the seasonal cuisine, the vendanges (grape harvests), the frisquet (chilly) temperatures, the pretty mists and brouillard…and perhaps most of all the woody scent of fires burning in the air.

In the spirit of this special French season, I am sharing my top five ways to really experience autumn in France (of course France in non-virus times). It’s a bit of virtual travel – when you can’t go to France, France can come to you! And it’s also good for some leisurely trip planning – so get out your French travel notebook and keep one or all of these at the ready for your next trip.

I. See the fall foliage at any of the gorgeous châteaux in the Ile de France

There are many fabulous castles within an hour of Paris. With their stunning countryside settings and beautiful rows of towering trees planted decades or even centuries ago, the châteaux provide perfect clouds of yellow, orange and red leaves. A favorite fall image of mine is the trees surrounding the magical Foulerie at the Château de Courances. The yellows and oranges framing this 17th century flax mill are eternally eye-catching. As Courances has been our home base in France, I have taken many a walk here over the past several years and am always moved by the colorful curtains of leaves every autumn. Other fall excursions I particularly enjoy are to the Châteaux of Sceaux, Fontainebleau, Versailles, Vaux-le-Vicomte and Rambouillet. Our French hunting dog Marcel especially loves running in the forest in fall. While the pretty leaves don’t move him, the crisp weather and active game all around sure do.

II. Try to Catch the Grape Harvest in One of France’s Wine Regions

With all the blaze of color of French trees in fall, it’s easy to overlook the lovely jewel tones of French vineyards. In Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Loire Valley, Provence and other wine-producing areas, the vines and grapes make very pretty views as well. And if you can swing it, try to catch a vineyard during the harvest – it’s an amazing thing to watch the culmination of a year’s worth of growing and tender loving care. Tastings are usually part of the fun too. Or better yet, volunteer to be part of the harvest team yourself. There’s great camaraderie to be had, and they usually put on a fantastic French meal with lots of wine when all the work is done. This year with the Covid crisis, some vineyards were short on harvest staff, calling for volunteers up until the last minute. It was an all-hands-on-deck experience just to get the grapes in.

III. Shop the Fall Offerings at French Open-Air Markets

French open-air markets are fun any time of year but especially in the autumn. Piles of ripe apples and pears, beautiful root vegetables, pumpkins and squash, baskets of fresh mushrooms, just harvested nuts, and so much more are on offer. I pull out my fall French recipes and ideas for slow cooking. Of course, French restaurants and bistrots feature what’s in season so I look for market ingredients on menus. I must confess that any dish with cèpe mushrooms always gets my attention as does gibier – wild game.

IV. Stay in a French Castle or Manor House Surrounded by Fall Beauty

There are so many historic château and manor house hotels / bed and breakfasts around France. Come autumn, I adore their lovely ambiance out in the French countryside surrounded by forests of changing color. And there’s nothing better than having a wonderful glass of French wine – or champagne! – while sitting by a roaring fire. Below is the exquisite Château de la Treyne in autumn overlooking the Dordogne River – always a stop on my ‘Fall in Southwest France’ insider tour. We’ll be headed there in October 2021 to take in all the culture, cuisine, wines, gardens, beautiful fall and more in this divine region of France.

V. Visit French Gardens Decked Out in Their Fall Splendor

My favorite fall garden spots have to be the Dordogne and the Loire Valley. There are others to be sure but these offer so much pleasure and are prime postcard photo opportunities. Many are so beautiful they hardly seem real. In Southwest France, I highly recommend the gardens of Eyrignac (top photo below) and Marqueyssac. And in the Loire Valley, the Châteaux of Villandry (bottom photo below), Chenonceau, Azay-le-Rideau (middle photo below), Amboise, Chambord and Chaumont-sur-Loire reveal rich sides of themselves in fall not visible in other seasons. Fewer tourists at this time of year also mean more space and serenity in these havens of nature. And did I mention the extraordinary light?

All in all, autumn in France is rich and satisfying in almost every way. Yes, bring a jacket and wool scarf for cooler temps (and a travel umbrella for the occasional shower), but other than that, France shows some of her best self at this most glorious time of year.