The trick about traveling is how to go deeper. How to go beyond the guidebook. How to visit but not be a tourist. How to not only see but also really SEE.
In my quarter century of going deeper into France, I have found one of the most rewarding ways to connect with the country is to cook. In the city or in the country. High cuisine or low. With famous chefs or with unsung culinary heroes.
Why? Bien sûr (of course), food and wine are one of the top three conversation topics anytime anywhere in France. Seriously. And then too, participating is always more meaningful than observing. Period. You gather around a common purpose. You have to make an effort. And you have to meet people.
A few weeks ago, the French Affaires’ fall trip group ventured off to Paris to enjoy the many delights of la Capitale. Our focus was French cuisine in all its glory and accordingly, we indulged in wonderful food and wine—some of our own making. Two days after our arrival, we jumped into a lunch cooking class at the renowned Ritz Escoffier Cooking School* located in the basement of the luxurious Ritz Hotel.
Our chef instructor was the serious but amusing Madame Robert. She has been teaching both professional chefs and amateurs at the Ritz for several years, and she was a total pro. Our class included ten participants, our group of Americans and the rest French. Madame Robert translated our culinary task of the hour: To prepare dorade rôtie au sésame et aux poivrons doux avec couscous (gourmet roasted sea bream with sesame seeds, sweet peppers and couscous). And it was all hands on.
The ingredients were laid out for us in the fabulous professional kitchen, and we all had our own work station and tablier (apron). A French woman from La Rochelle who was in town with her husband on business was the first person to arrive. “Cathy” (pronounced kah-tee in French) was perusing our culinary assignments as our group of Americans joined her around the work table. The group was complete when three Ritz marketing managers put on their aprons and took their places.
Chef Robert (pronounced roh-bair in French) welcomed us to the class and introduced the recipes of the day. She began to demonstrate in both French and English how to prepare each step of the dishes, adding helpful astuces (tips) along the way. While she looked a bit formidable in her chef’s garb complete with the toque hat, she turned out to have a wonderful sense of humor and was very approachable throughout the class.
Side by side, we Americans and French chopped, seasoned, sautéed and talked our way through our food adventure. Chef Robert kept us on task and was encouraging even when the peppers were not perfectly cut or when our sautéed fish did not look exactly like hers. At the end of an hour, we gathered around the work table to serve and garnish our plates. Then we headed to the dining room to enjoy our feast with wine selected especially to go along with our creations.
Chef Robert bid us adieu as our cooking group offered her our remerciements (thanks). What followed was a very good lunch along with very good company. Our new French friends were warm and friendly and were as curious about us as we were about them. Cooking side by side had opened the door to wonderful camaraderie and to a palpably authentic French experience.
So the next time you are in France, consider joining a class of some kind–cooking in France of course is almost always a home run. You could pick up a new skill, make a new friend or see a part of French culture you didn’t know existed. It will be more than worth the effort.
