Toward the end of our time in southwest France this summer, my husband and I decided to take a break from the Bordeaux area and head down to the Pyrenees. I had never been ‘down under’ in France and looked forward to exploring the French Basque country nestled along the Spanish border.
We left Bordeaux’s Gare St. Jean (St. Jean train station) on a Monday morning and after changing trains in Bayonne, we arrived three hours later in St. Jean Pied de Port. The wildly picturesque town is situated on the Nive River at the base of the Roncevaux Pass across the Pyrenees mountains.
St. Jean Pied de Port literally means “St. John at the foot of the pass.” Approximately five miles from Spain, it is famous for its place on the pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela, known as the Chemin de St. Jacques, and as the last stop before the difficult passage through the mountains.
The afternoon of our arrival was market day and the village was thronged with tourists as well as the eternal pilgrims. Backpacks and hiking shoes were the main fashion items along the narrow streets.
But for those looking for a more aesthetic type of footwear, the many boutiques selling locally-made espadrilles are a great place to start. I happened upon a fabulous shop specializing in custom-made espadrilles. I’ll be posting the story of this original addition to my wardrobe next week.
Speaking of aesthetics, the Pays Basque (Basque country) owes part of its personality to its signature architecture. White stucco accented by red trim and red tiled roofs are required of residents who live in the region. Some houses and buildings also are accented by red granite native to the area, often carved with the date of construction.
The principal architectural marvel of the town is the citadel, located at the top of the steep, cobblestoned streets. Built in the early seventeenth century in response to the wars of religion and conflicts between France and Spain, the citadelle was redone by the famous French fort architect Vauban around 1680. While the interior is not open to the public, the impressive facade attracts crowds of visitors. Its altitude affords impressive panoramas of the mountains around St. Jean Pied de Port. But I think my favorite view in this part of the village was the banks of hydrangeas resting innocently against the centuries old fortress walls.
After exploring the town, we decided go further afield and try one of the many randonnées pédestres (walks) in the nearby hills and mountains. The Office du Tourisme in St. Jean Pied de Port was a wealth of information. They offered detailed maps for walks and hikes of varying degrees of difficulty in an easy, put-in-your-pocket format for a few centimes.
We started off and in just minutes, we were out in the countryside and headed up into the mountains to our destination—a panoramic view of the entire valley. The walk was so stunning that I’ll have to share more of it in another posting. But here is a photo looking back towards St Jean Pied de Port from our perch in the mountain vineyards:
As I wrap up this week’s posting, I have to mention yet another spectacular part of St. Jean Pied de Port–its cuisine. Full of spices and peppers, it’s worth exploring in its own post as well. So bookmark this page for coming Pays basque attractions!
French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™
So what sort of souvenir does one take away from the Basque country? Basque linens, of course! Signature stripes distinguish it from its Provençal cousins and from other types of French linens. In St. Jean Pied de Port, a multitude of shops were selling their version of linge basque but I think my favorite was the chic Jean Vier boutique. Here are some of their fabrics sold by the yard:
And the colorful dish towels were creatively displayed on this mannequin:
I bought a few things sur place (while there) and made a note that their beautiful offerings are also available online at www.jean-vier.com. The company has also sponsored a beautiful museum of Basque culture and craftsmanship in St. Jean de Luz. Another spot to put on the France must-visit list!