Mansions in Paris ~ The Hotel de Talleyrand

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One of the most beautiful expressions of urban French architecture is the hôtel particulier, or private mansion. Many cities all over France have outstanding examples of these prestigious demeures (dwellings) from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. The hôtel particulier was often freestanding – not attached to adjacent buildings – and located on its property entre cour et jardin (between the entrance court and garden behind it). It was also quite large compared to other city residences and belonged to a single (particular) owner. Before the French Revolution, it was the nobility who inherited or built these mansions. Post Ancien Régime, they belonged to wealthy members of the bourgeoisie and the clergy.

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Paris used to have 2000 private mansions. Today, only about 400 still exist. Their magnificent façades, splendid interiors and lovely gardens make them worth seeking out. Some of the most well known – and accessible to the public – are located in the Marais area of the city: the Hôtel Carnavalet and the Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint-Fargeau now house the Musée Carnavalet which showcases the history of Paris. Also in the Marais is the Hôtel de Donon (now the Musée Cognacq-Jay), the Hôtel Salé (the Musée Picasso), the Hôtel Lamoignon (the Bibliothèque Historique de la Ville de Paris), and the breathtaking Hôtel de Soubise (now part of the Archives Nationales). Elsewhere in Paris, you have the famous Hôtel Biron (now the Rodin Museum) and the Hôtel Jacquemart-André housing the museum of the same name. Clearly, museums inhabit some of the best real estate in la capitale.

The French government owns its fair share of Paris mansions. For example, the Hôtel Matignon on the Left Bank is home to the prime minister of France. The Hôtel de Lassay houses the president of the Assemblée Nationale (part of France’s parliament). Other mansions belong to various embassies and diplomatic missions including the lovely Maison de l’Amerique Latine on the Boulevard St. Germain. And there are still some that serve as private residences, most notably the stunning Hôtel Lambert at the eastern tip of the Ile St. Louis. This last one has been the center of controversy in recent years when it was sold by the Rothschild family to a Quatari prince (for an extraordinary sum) who wanted to extensively renovate the mansion. Unfortunately, the mansion made the news again two weeks ago when a fire broke out severely damaging the historical property.

I love history and architecture so I jump at the chance to see some of these extraordinary buildings up close. The museums make it easy to do. But the government buildings and private properties are another story. One option is to schedule a visit to Paris during Les Journées du Patrimoine (French Heritage Days) in mid-September when many private monuments are open to the public – but be prepared for long waiting lines as the French adore this cultural happening! Another option is to get invited to a special event held in one of these special venues.

This summer, I attended the annual American University Clubs reception at the Hôtel de Talleyrand just off the Place de la Concorde. The AUC is a consortium of nearly 40 American university alumni groups, including my alma mater of Vanderbilt. Every year, they host their summer gathering with the U.S. ambassador at the Hôtel de Talleyrand, aka the George Marshall Center, which is one of two Paris mansions owned by the U.S. government. The other, the Hôtel de Pontalba, is home to the U.S. Ambassador to France, currently Charles Rivkin.

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The U.S. owned Hôtel de Talleyrand in the center of Paris

Following the U.S. purchase of the Hôtel de Talleyrand after WWII, the building served as the administrative headquarters of the Marshall Plan, then was used to house the U.S. consular offices in Paris until 2007. After significant restoration efforts from 2000 to 2010, the 18th century mansion is now used for special events and meetings sponsored by the U.S. Embassy in Paris. Part of the building also houses an international law firm as well as the World Monuments Fund Europe.

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Portrait of George C. Marshall at the Hôtel de Talleyrand

While attending the reception was a pleasure – it was great to see friends and colleagues and also to hear remarks by the ambassador – the real star of the evening was the venue itself. Over 150 French artisans participated in the mansion’s restoration and their expertise was on display everywhere.

The Grand Escalier (Great Staircase) is a work of art with its original 18th century iron railing. The monumental proportions make for an impressive entry to the reception rooms above.

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The AUC event guests were free to mingle in the numerous salles (rooms). The gilded molding, sparkling chandeliers, painted woodwork, and flowing draperies, all in sterling condition, were breathtaking.

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My particular favorite was the painted woodwork. I was curious about how many hours the artisans spent restoring this aspect of the mansion.

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This photo shows the painted woodwork of the Boudoir Rothschild room & its original parquet floor

The detail of the painted design is incredible…

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As was the view from the Hôtel de Talleyrand’s windows. The Place de la Concorde and the Jeu de Paume in the Tuileries gardens were just outside…

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All in all, it was a fabulous evening and a fabulous venue. If, like me, you like French architecture and the French decorative arts, you’ll want to seek out some of these private Paris mansions for a closer viewing. Try the museum route or the French Heritage Days – they are great ways to see some of the historical glories of France.

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