To me, it’s Paris’ restaurant row. La rue des Grands Augustins in the sixth arrondissement in Paris hosts more good dining spots in a few short blocks than many cities in the world can boast in multiple square miles. Just a few steps from la Seine (the river in Paris), this slice of gourmet heaven is also a visual treat with its well-preserved 16th and 17th century architecture.
On the south end of the street is Mariage frères, a salon de thé (tea salon) and boutique.* It’s good for lunch during the week or afternoon tea, but my favorite Mariage Frères offering is their Saturday or Sunday brunch.
A few steps away from Mariage frères is one Michelin-starred Jacques Cagna with its more rustic sister restaurant, La Rôtisserie d’en face, just around the corner on the rue Christine.** The farm-raised roast chicken with old-style mashed potatoes at La Rôtisserie d’en face is not to be missed.
Just down from Jacques Cagna is the two Michelin-starred Le Relais Louis XIII.*** Ensconced in an elegantly updated 16th century building with exposed wooden beams and subdued lighting, this restaurant oozes history and ambiance as well as excellent cuisine.
On the façade outside reads the following:
“Ici, le jeune Louis XIII fut intronisé, une heure après la mort de son père Henri IV.”
“Here the young Louis XIII proclaimed king, one hour after the death of his father Henri IV.”****
If you don’t get sidetracked by the history of this endroit (place), you might be ébloui (dazzled) by one of their specialties, the lobster and foie gras ravioli with a mushroom cream sauce. It is one of the best dishes I have ever had in France.
As you approach the Seine, you have the rather mod Ze Kitchen Galerie and the modern Les Bouquinistes on your left.***** Both are worth a culinary stop. Finally, on your right as you reach the Quai des Grands Augustins along the river, is Lapérouse.****** Founded in 1766, this restaurant has seen its fortunes wax and wane, but today it’s back on many gourmet must-visit lists.
While some of these eateries are more pricey than others, you can’t go wrong at any of the dining establishments. And as much as it’s wonderful to wander all over la Capitale trying restaurants of all kinds, you could stay within these few blocks and vous régaler…comme un roi (treat yourself…like a king).
* Mariage Frères Rive Gauche is located at 13, rue des Grands Augustins. There are two other Mariage frères locations in Paris.
** Jacques Cagna is located at 14, rue des Grands Augustins. La Rôtisserie d’en face is located at 2, rue Christine.
*** Le Relais Louis XIII can be found at 8, rue des Grands Augustins.
**** Louis the XIII was nine when his father, King Henri IV, was assassinated in 1610 by the Catholic Ravaillac. Louis’ mother, Marie de Medicis, became regent until young Louis came of age.
***** Ze Kitchen Galerie can be found at 4, rue des Grands Augustins. Les Bouquinistes is part of the Guy Savoy family of restaurants and is located at 53, quai des Grands Augustins.
****** Lapérouse’s address is 51, quai des Grands Augustins.