It is lavender time in Provence. At last. Southern French fields and gardens explode with the fragrant flower beginning mid to late June. Then the vibrant violet blooms color the landscape for a few weeks – or until they are picked.
Lavender has a good history. The Romans used it to keep linens fresh and scent their baths. During the middle ages, perfumes and also healing agents were made from la lavande. It grew wild and also was a staple in monastery gardens around the Mediterranean. But it was from the nineteenth century on that lavender production really came into its own. Perfumeries around Grasse near la Côte d’azur (the Riviera) were in such need of the plant’s essential oil that systematic cultivation of le lavandin, the particularly productive variety of lavender, began.
Today, lavender and Provence are almost synonymous. You can drive around and see lavender fields especially in the Luberon, Vaucluse, Alpes of Haute Provence, and Var areas where chalky well-drained soil, a little altitude and of course, lots of sun, combine for a perfect growing environment. Much of the current lavender production is used for soaps and laundry or cleaning products. And the gorgeous purple ribbons waving across the landscape are a public relations dream. If you have an affinity for lavender, here are a few thoughts for experiencing it up close when in Provence:
Outdoor Markets: Bouquets of lavender and sachets of lavender blooms are available for sale in season. I recently bought large bags for about 2 euros each – quelle bonne affaire (what a bargain)!
And at the Friday market in the village of Eygalières, I came upon a local woman who has revived the old tradition of les fuseaux de lavande. These lovely objects are made from about 30 stems of lavender – the blooms are turned inward and then colorful ribbons are woven through the stems and tied at the base. Les fuseaux were typically placed in armoires and drawers to scent linens and keep away dust mites. Today, they cost about 20 to 30 euros apiece as they are labor intensive. But they are a long-lasting keepsake – the lavender flowers hold their scent for three to four years; then you can put a few drops of essential lavender oil in the top to refresh the fragrance.
Lavender Routes: Just as many regions of France offer special itineraries showcasing local products such as wines, foie gras or Calvados, Provence has organized les Routes de la lavande. There are six circuits that permit visitors to take in beautiful vistas, walk through lavender fields, pick the flowers, tour distilleries, attend aromatherapy workshops, and more. The Lavender Routes web site is quite comprehensive and offers lots of ideas for excursions during lavender season.
Another highlight from Les Routes de la lavande are the summer festivals in various towns and villages along the routes…
Lavender Museum: The Musée de la lavande was founded in 1991 by the Lincelé family which grows and distills lavender on their nearby 80-hectare (200-acre) farm. Located near Gordes in the Luberon, the museum covers the history, culture and botany of lavender.
Special Boutiques: The other day in Arles, I passed by a shop selling only lavender and lavender products. It turns out that Pure lavande la boutique also belongs to the Lincelé family. They sell a variety of items made from the essential oil of their fine lavender. There is a second shop located in Avignon.
Culinary Lavender: Lavender is also used in cooking. One can buy culinary-grade lavender and make wonderful delicacies such as lavender ice cream and lavender shortbread. Another specialty is lavender honey which has long been prized in France. I think my favorite lavender taste treat though is Joël Durand’s lavender chocolate. Monsieur Durand must-visit boutique in St. Rémy showcases his ‘alphabet chocolates’ – little squares of milk or dark chocolate featuring various flavors. The “L” version combines lavender and milk chocolate. And in season, he makes lavender caramel enrobed in chocolate – absolutely incredible!
Being around so much lavender in Provence makes me wish I had a entire lavender field of my own. But I make do by having a few of the plants in my garden – and too, whenever and wherever I come across a lavender plant in bloom, I can’t help but gently press the tip of a blooming stem. Then the lovely lavender fragrance stays on my fingers the rest of the day…the smell of summertime in Provence.
French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter
Lavender farms in the U.S.: There are several farms in the U.S. that cultivate lavender including some in Texas, California, North Carolina, and Washington state. If you google ‘lavender farms,’ you’ll find specific locations and contact information.
Lavender in French gardens: Next week, French Affaires and SMU in Dallas are partnering to feature “The Spirit of French Gardens: A Virtual Tour of Green Spaces in France.” We’ll get to see several gardens in France with a riot of lavender in bloom on July 23 from 7 to 9pm. Click here for more information and to register.
