It is tempting to think that traveling can be quantified. In other words, it’s easy to believe that it’s possible to ‘do London’ or ‘do Florence’ or ‘do Paris’ in one week. But if you’ve ever spent time in any of these cities, it’s clear that their abundant riches can’t be fully experienced in just a few days.
A similar idea comes to mind when visiting some of the regions of France. Provence, for example, is a popular destination and full of wonderful things to see and do. What becomes clear once you start planning a trip to the area, however, is how large Provence really is. So how to know where to start your visit? And how to make sure you’re not missing something really fabulous while you’re there?
Here’s a short guide to what la Provence is all about and, whether you have a few days or a few weeks or even more time, where to go to savor ‘the good stuff’:
Provence is located in France’s southeastern-most corner next to Italy. This part of the country is also known as le Midi or le Sud (short for ‘le sud de la France’). Its Mediterranean culture and beautiful climate make it one of the most blessed places in all of France, and really in all the world. Sea, sun, luscious landscapes and fragrant hills make it attractive nearly all year round. While full of cultural treasures, Provence is also known for its laid-back atmosphere which even extends to locals and their pronounced southern French accent – really a twang! And for me, just the idea of sitting outdoors at a Provence café or on the terrace at home sipping a glass of local rosé wine is sublime.
The name ‘Provence’ comes from the Romans who occupied the region 2000 years ago and called it ‘Provincia,’ or a province of Rome. Some of the most stunning features as you travel around the Provence region today are the numerous Roman ruins and monuments, many still in excellent condition.
But first things first, to figure out where to spend your time in Provence, it’s helpful to know that the region is divided into six government departments:
Les Alpes Maritimes
Le Var
Les Alpes de Haute Provence
Les Hautes Alpes
Les Bouches du Rhône
Le Vaucluse
Many consider the Alpes Maritimes department that includes the Mediterranean coast from Menton over to Cannes to be more the “French Riviera” than Provence. Known as la Côte d’Azur in French, the French Riviera is home to the glitzy, (over)developed cities on the coast such as Nice and Cannes as well as small villages such as Vence, St. Paul de Vence, Cagnes, Grasse, and more. My advice for enjoying the Riviera to the fullest is to visit any time of year except July and August when vacation crowds and traffic are absolutely overwhelming.
Regarding other Provence departments, I would say that the Var, Alpes de Hautes Provence and Hautes Alpes are less visited by tourists. The exception would be the Var which is home to the legendary St. Tropez on the coast and also intriguing cultural visits such as the inland town of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie known for its charming Provençal pottery. And in the Alpes de Haute Provence, the magnificent Gorge du Verdon is a sight outdoor enthusiasts will not want to miss. The 25 kilometer long canyon welcomes hikers and kayakers wanting to see the canyon’s spectacular beauty and turquoise river waters up close.
So where do visitors go for the best of Provence? The Bouches du Rhône and the Vaucluse departments hold most of what people think of when they say ‘Provence.’ Marseille and Avignon are found here. The lovely villages perchés (hilltop towns – literally ‘perched villages’) such as Gordes are found here. Many of the most popular market towns are located in the Bouches du Rhône (meaning ‘mouth of the Rhone river’) and the Vaucluse.
For me, the absolute best part of Provence is time spent in what I call the ‘golden triangle’ bounded by Arles to the west, Avignon to the north and Aix-en-Provence to the east. Here you have the best of city life with lots to see and do of course in Aix, Avignon and Arles. Then in between, you come upon some of the most picturesque villages such as St. Rémy and Les Baux in the Alpilles hills. There are also the towns of Lourmarin and Bonnieux in the southern Luberon mountains. You have wine country. You have olive oil country. You have gardens galore. You have Roman monuments par excellence. And you have some of the best cuisine in all of France. All wrapped up in a place with some of the most magnificent weather on the planet – making every bit of it that much more enjoyable.
So I hope this demystifies Provence a little bit but we’ve really only touched the tip of the iceberg with what the region is all about. I’ll have to include some more specific places and things to visit in future postings. But for now, I’ll leave you with this wonderful quote from classic culinary writer and chef Elizabeth David which notes the eternal pull of Provence on those lucky enough to visit it:
‘Provence is a country to which I am always returning, next week, next year, any day now, as soon as I can get on to a train…’ from French Provincial Cooking (1960)