There’s always so much going on in Paris that it’s sometimes hard to choose what to see or do at any given moment. And on top of the regular Parisian delights, the past few days I’ve found it difficult to pull myself away from watching the Roland-Garros tennis tournament (Americans know it as the “French Open”) on TV. Of course, the tennis complex is not too far – one of these days, I’ll buy some tickets and actually attend – as it is located on the west side of town and is accessible by Metro. In any case, the French television coverage of the event is easy and a win-win for tennis fans; channels 2 and 3 share the job of showing match after match all day long.
Despite the exciting and intense tennis play of this year’s tournament, I decided to take advantage of a cultural threesome a few days ago. I headed to the Musée d’Orsay (Orsay Museum) to see the newly-refurbished Impressionist galleries. It was a Wednesday morning about 10am and wonderfully enough, getting into the museum was a breeze with virtually no one in the ticket line. I bought the “Passeport musée d’Orsay – musée de l’Orangerie,” a special ticket costing 14 euros which allows you to visit the Orsay Museum and its special exhibitions (normally 12 euros per person). In addition, within four days, you can also take in the Orangerie Museum (normally 7.5 euros per person). As an added bonus, the ticket allows you to visit the Paris Opéra Garnier within 8 days for the reduced price of 6 euros instead of the full 9 euros. It’s definitely une bonne affaire (a good deal), as the French say.
On my way to the fifth floor Galerie des Impressionistes, I walked through the special exhibition currently on view “Degas et le nu” (“Degas and the Nude”). It was a fascinating look at the countless hours Degas spent painting and drawing the (primarily female) nude body. The show is on view until July 1 so do make a point of seeing it if you are in Paris this month.
Ensuite (next), I went up the multiple escalators to see the newly redone galleries that house many of the most famous Impressionist paintings in the world. The rooms are now done in a charcoal gray which presumably allows the shimmering colors and painting techniques to show at their best. Just as interesting were the art students with easels copying the Impressionist masters’ works.
After my Orsay visit, I walked across the Seine on the nearby pedestrian bridge and through the Tuileries gardens to the Musée de l’Orangerie. I showed my “Passport” ticket and entered to view Monet’s gigantic Water Lily panels that he painted at various times of day. It was “Giverny” without leaving Paris. The paintings’ beauty is both obvious and subtle at the same time. With the fullness of color and lack of horizon line, the art might be best seen when in a meditative sort of mood. Or, one can tag along with this French elementary school teacher who was helping her students ‘see’ as Monet did. No red casquette (baseball cap) necessary.
Though I saved the Opera for another day, the “Passport” ticket was a mini “Paris Museum Pass.” * If you only want to drink in a bit of culture and get a good three-way deal on a Paris visit, it’s definitely the way to go.
* The Paris Museum Pass is available in two-, four- and six-day versions. It offers admission to approximately 60 museums and cultural institutions in and around the Paris area. Click here for more information on the pass.